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Day 99 – Elk Island National Park

Sleeping in my car was actually kinda nice, as when it got to cold I’d just start the engine and blast the heat for a bit. I managed to catch a decent bit of sleep and started the day driving towards Edmonton.


Clear skies and sunshine accompanied me on my way west and soon I entered Alberta. I had planned to get some winter tires and after some calling around I found a place that would be able to get me all set up bright and early the following day. With some time to burn I decided I’d hike Elk Island Nation Park as it was close by.


Soon I was in the park office, grabbing a map and planning out which trail I was gonna hike. I ended up picking one of the longer ones at close to 17 km and proceeded to head on over to the trail where I laced up my boots and began the lengthy adventure.


Autumn leaves covered the path, cushioning my steps as I moved forward. The trail took me through a thick forest of aspen trees, occasionally opening to fields of tall grass where gusts of wind caused the fluffy white plants to let loose their seedlings as they took to the skies.


Eventually I made it to a vast open field, a home to many of the bison that grazed on it’s abundant supply of food. I even managed to see one of the massive beasts far off in the distance as it peacefully chowed down.


The sun was beginning to set as I passed a few lakes where beavers hurried about as they added to an already impressive dam. I kept stopping to take pictures but I was also aware that once the sun went down it would get dark quickly. With poor trail markers at times I didn’t wanna mess up and venture down the wrong path getting stranded in the dark. I pulled out my map repeatedly, navigating my way to the end of the trail.


I still had around 4 km to go after the sun dipped down and the path grew dark. Twilight grew more pronounced with every passing moment, a reminder to hurry along as quick as I could. By the time I reached the end of the hike I could hardly see, but I’d made it, phew! I returned to the car and set off to a campground a little further north. With the early arrival of night the bison were out in abundance, many of them coming out of the brush and taking to the paved road. I navigated my way through the beasts, making it to the campground safely where I managed to get a much needed shower in and pitch my tent. Feeling a little sore and exhausted I crawled inside my sleeping bag at last and dozed off.

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Day 100 – A triple digit landmark!

Wow, 100 days on the road! It’s been a pretty incredible journey as I’ve traveled the country but it’s not over yet, the adventure must go on!


I started my day bright and early as I drove into Edmonton to pick up some snow tires. I lucked out as someone was late for one of their appointments. Due to this I was able to get my car prepped a lot earlier and made it back on the road sooner than I’d planned.


I ventured northwest, passing through many industrial towns such as Grande Prairie on my way. If I’m to complete my goals I’ll have to keep a good pace and cover at least 600 km everyday. The grind can be tough at times but the views along the way make it worth it, stoking the flames of adventure deep within my soul.


I entered BC and made my way to Dawson Creek, arriving just after dusk. I remembered passing through this town on my way out of BC as I traveled east, now here I was returning to it once again as I traveled west. With a full days worth of driving accomplished I was feeling rather exhausted. I stopped at one of the restaurants and grabbed a bite to eat before searching for a place to camp. With a cold and powerful wind moving through the region I knew tenting it would prove troublesome so I put my seat back and dozed off in my vehicle.

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Day 101 – Entering the Alaska Highway

I awoke with the rising sun and began planning my day. I stocked up on a few things in Dawson Creek then took to the roads as early as I could heading north on the Alaska Highway. With less light during the day I have been trying to get earlier starts on the road in order to maximize my viewing time since you just can’t appreciate the landscapes the same way at night.


As I pressed on north I could see the land changing, mountains and deep valleys now replacing the flat farmland. The drive was surpassing expectations and I was often left in awe at the endless supply of post card views.


Wildlife was thriving and made plenty of appearances. I even caught a glimpse of the biggest black bear I’d ever seen chowing down on some plants. With hundred of kilometers of bush all around there was plenty of room for the animals to thrive on the land.


Eventually I arrived in the Northern Rockies, a place I’ll never forget. Absolutely massive mountains and deep valleys greeted me as the highway weaved its way through the towering giants.


The sun was going down and the light was disappearing, I was feeling the fatigue of the day weighing on me so I pulled into a place called Toad River. A little restaurant with a ceiling full of hats served me up the best beef stew I’d ever had. With a full belly I returned to my car where I dozed off for the night.

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Day 102 – Through the Northern Rockies and into the Yukon

Having had such a great meal at the restaurant in Toad River the night before I decided I’d grab some breakfast in the morning there as well. I had a big day ahead and getting a hearty meal in me was nice.


Going through the Northern Rockies was a spectacular drive. With immense mountains surrounding me on every side and powerful aqua rivers that rushed alongside the highway, I was left in a constant state of awe, often bursting into laughter at the sheer magnitude of the land around me.


Wildlife thrived in the regions, from smaller creatures like foxes and porcupines to herds of bison that grazed on the side of the road.


I kept a good pace but made sure to stop and appreciate the land as well. This led me to take detours down lengthy dirt roads to find hidden gems, one of them being a waterfall that was hidden deep in the bush.


On my way I passed by Liard River Hotsprings and decided it was worth the stop. I was glad I did, as soon I found myself walking down a wooden boardwalk to the bubbling springs. I didn’t just come to admire it though and made sure to take a dip. The hot waters felt refreshing and rejuvenating, a place I would’ve stayed at all day if I’d had more time to spare.


It was time to keep pressing on and soon I’d entered the Yukon at last! I was greeted by harsh winds upon my arrival into the Territory as a storm above me was growing in strength.


Along the way I came to the town of Watson Lake where the famous Sign Post Forest resided. What a fascinating place it turned out to be, a unique destination unlike any other. All sorts of signs adorned the wooden poles the rose up out of the ground, a creative spectacle that was impossible to miss.


As I continued my journey northwest it began to snow, lightly at first but soon heavier snow flakes fell to the earth and began accumulating. The weaving roads became icy, heightening the danger of going over a cliff and crashing in a ditch far below. I was thankful I picked up premium studded snow tires as they were holding up incredibly well in the harsh conditions.


I tried to find a place to pull over and rest but options were limited as I didn’t wanna get stuck. Eventually I found a spot where I set my alarm to wake me up periodically throughout the night for a chance at seeing the northern lights. Sadly I didn’t have any luck, it seems like I’ll have to wait a little longer for the spectacle.

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Day 103 – The looming decision in a land of snow

I was up fairly early and heading into Whitehorse to get some supplies and information. I’ve been putting a lot of thought into doing the drive up north on the Dempster Highway and I wanted to get as much information as possible before doing so. That highway is infamous for popped tires, broken wind shields and at this time of the year, snow.


By the time I finally left the city it was noon. Much of the land was covered in a thick white sheet of snow that’d fallen the night before. It turns out it broke a record in Whitehorse for the most snowfall at the beginning of the winter season!


The drive north was beautiful. Many lakes and rivers hugged the highway as it weaved its way through the mountainous lands. I was in no rush and took my time appreciating all the views.


As I made it further north the snow began to disappear, showcasing the land in a different color. I’ve always found it interesting looking at something and realizing how much different it was for someone in the past. One of these things was a narrow opening between a river where rapids gathered. While to me it was something nice to look at, during the gold rush this was a serious obstacle for treasure hunters as they navigated the land by boat.


I passed through some small towns with some neat signs but didn’t really explore them, I was to busy thinking about the potential drive the next day.


Nighttime arrived as I pulled into Dawson City. I refilled my gas tank and found a place to doze off. I set my alarm clock to wake me up at 4am, when I would make my final decision on braving the Dempster Highway.

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Day 104 – The daunting Dempster Highway!

I was awake at 4am doing a final check of the road conditions. The highway, while full of challenges, was doable. I couldn’t shy away now, I didn’t know when I’d have another opportunity to do such a drive. It was still quite dark as I took to the daunting Dempster Highway. Bushes covered in frost sparkled alongside the dirt and gravel road as I pressed forward. The temperatures fluctuated all over the place, from -10 to -19 within minutes. I had two ferry’s to catch around 550 km in and didn’t wanna risk missing them so I kept aware of my time and location as I drove onward.


The sun started to rise, bringing with it an amalgamation of pink and orange clouds that spread their colors across the land. For the first time I could see tall mountains covered in snow that surrounded the narrow highway. Half frozen rivers full of raging rapids followed alongside the road at times, a deadly and beautiful sight.


I could see why this road had quite the reputation for popped tires and broken windshields. With endless potholes and patches of sharp rocks, it made for a dangerous drive. Vehicles would pass at times, kicking up rocks as they went. I made sure to slow down for them as I carefully navigated the highway, trying my best to drive according to the conditions.


I entered into the Arctic Circle where a heavy blizzard welcomed me. It was one of those moments I was thankful I picked up good snow tires. The flurry blotted out much of the surrounding land as it blew through the area. By the time I made it into the Northwest Territories I could hardly see the sign!


I made it to the ferry’s in time, crossing two rivers into what felt like a different land. Driving the Dempster was like entering in and out of different realms, from steep mountains adorned with evergreens to flat land where hardly any trees grew at all.


I arrived in Inuvik, the end of the Dempster Highway but not the end of terrible roads. I didn’t explore the town too much, opting to visit on my way back and continue north.


Fatigue was setting in as the sun went down. I had driven over 800 km on a stressful unpaved road and I pulled over to take a break. Above me a strange white streak moved across the sky, could it be the Northern Lights?! I sat there staring up but a thick of clouds soon covered it. I needed rest regardless to do the rest of the drive safely so I simply dozed off in my car. What a drive it’d been!

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Day 105 – The northern lights appear!

As I opened my eyes a glowing sunrise greeted me. Winnie needed to stretch her legs so I let her out to play in the snow as I stood there admiring the warm and radiant colors off in the distance.


The last bit of the drive was rough. Deep potholes and all kinds of bumps challenged my focus as I tried to weave my way around them the best I could. Soon that brutal road took me to the destination I’d drove up north for, I’d arrived at last in Tuktokuktuk, land of the pingos. Pingos are a neat natural phenomena as freezing and thawing water in the earth create all sorts of bumps that rise up from the earth.


I drove to the end of the hamlet right up to the edge of the Arctic Ocean. I’d made it! I took my boots off and dipped my feet in the freezing waters. It was the coldest water I’d ever felt, with the icy waves numbing my feet in seconds. I’d done it though, I finally dipped my feet in three different oceans, an achievement that I’d talked about accomplishing for years.


There was only one restaurant in town, Grandma’s Kitchen. I drove up to the house and knocked on the door where a friendly face greeted me and invited me in. The kind lady along with her husband and daughter sparked up a conversation with me as my meal was prepared. Being this far up north I had to try something unique so I got the muktuk, the outer part of the beluga whale along with some miqpuk, dry whale meat. Both had quite the interesting taste. The muktuk was kinda sweet and meaty where as the miqpuk was like steak with a hint of fish flavor. Both were incredibly delicious!


I did some more exploring of the tiny hamlet. The locals were very friendly, often waving as I drove by. I wanted to pick up a souvenir but the store that sold them was closed for the season. I asked around, seeing if anyone knew where I could get any collectibles when I came across an old lady that told me she had something. I drove to her house and she brought out some handmade moose hide gloves. Being that she’d spent her entire life in the town, she was full of interesting stories and I eagerly listened as I tried on my new gloves for the first time. I was ecstatic, I had obtained the best possible souvenir I could possibly ask for! Her neighbors were quite friendly as well, sparking up a wonderful conversation with me.


Having spent the day wondering about, chatting with locals and admiring the town, I returned to the shores of the Arctic Ocean where I watched the sun slowly go down over the chilly water.


The sky was quite clear as darkness arrived and I was feeling lucky about seeing the northern lights. After a lifetime of waiting they finally revealed themselves! Pictures don’t do them justice, not even close! The light danced rapidly across the sky, like a musical symphony orchestrated in beams of light. I laughed as I stared at the natural phenomena, words could not express the joy that flooded my heart, I’d waited my entire life to see this and it was even better than I’d ever imagined. I put on my new moose hide gloves, keeping my hands nice and toasty as I stared at the sky for hours. At last the show came to an end and with great fulfillment I fell asleep.

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Day 106 – The case of the missing drone

With such an amazing time the night before I took to the road smiling as I began the return south. I found the perfect spot about 180 km outside of Tuktoyuktuk where I decided I’d fly my drone up and take a pic. I pulled over to the side of the road and went to grab it from the back seat where I normally kept it. That was strange I thought, it wasn’t there. I figured I must’ve buried it under something and kept searching. I began to panic as the search became frantic, where was my drone?! It was missing! Did I place it down somewhere and forget I’d done so? How could this happen?!


I rushed back to Tuktoyuktuk fighting back tears. This couldn’t happen, how on earth could I lose something like that?! The adventure couldn’t end like this! I found myself distraught, praying to God that it would show up.


I made it into Tuktoyuktuk and went to the bench I might’ve left it on, it wasn’t there. Crushing sadness began to overwhelm me. I couldn’t give up though, I had to try and find it despite a diminishing hope . I asked all the locals I could find, offering a generous reward for its return. I got recommended to go to the town office and made my way there.


An administrative lady greeted me and heard my story. It turns out her husband had come across a drone in the past day and made a facebook post about it. My eyes widened as she spoke, my once dim hope growing to a prodigious optimism. She called him and he showed up carrying a black box. I lifted the cover and peered inside, there it was, God had heard my prayers and answered them! The overwhelming relief! The boundless happiness that filled me! I offered the kind man a reward but he refused, saying one of his workers had found it and freely brought it to him, that he simply couldn’t take anything in return. I will never forget the kindness that was shown to me in that moment, there truly are beautiful souls out there.


So how exactly did I lose the drone to begin with? After I’d taken some pictures of the pingos the previous day and packed my drone up, I’d left the box on the back of my car instead of immediately putting it back inside like I normally would. I had walked over to read one of the signs explaining the natural wonders in depth and somehow I’d forgotten the box was still sitting on my vehicle out of sight. As I drove into town it had fallen off and onto the road where it was found a few hours later.


I gave the drone a thorough inspection once it was returned to me. Overall it had suffered minimal damage, a few scrapes here and there but the lens and other vulnerable parts were still perfectly fine. One of the detachable wings was broken though and my spare battery was gone. That was fine. The wings are attached every time you fly it so I could easily replace them. I was so happy to have the drone returned to me I didn’t care about the wing and missing battery. I won’t be taking any aerial shots until I can pick up a spare wing but that’s ok, there is some pretty rough weather ahead that would prevent me from flying anyway.


It was a lot later than I wanted it to be as I took to the road again heading south. I was also feeling a growing fatigue as it’d been a pretty emotional day coupled with barely any sleep from the previous night watching the northern lights. I made my way along though, passing through Inuvik and catching the ferry’s in time.


I was originally scheduled to avoid the snowstorm that was coming but with the massive loss in time dealing with the drone situation I was now driving in a blizzard at night. I took my time as I carefully navigated the slippery roads, taking no more then 5 minute breaks when focusing became difficult. I eventually arrived back in the Yukon and made my way to the Eagle Plains, an outpost with a hotel and gas station. I opted to finish driving the Dempster in the morning when I was well rested. What an emotional roller coaster the day had turned out to be.

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Day 107 – Caught in a northern blizzard

The snowfall I’d dealt with the night before was still falling heavily by the morning and the road north was now closed. Luckily the southern part of the Dempster was still open and waiting for me to embrace a challenge of snow and ice.


I knew the drive would be perilous but I couldn’t shy away, a thick snowfall was forecast to continue for days. The landscape took on a new appearance with the compounding snow, adorning it with a layer of fresh powder like a woolly cloak.


The highway cut through Tombstone Provincial Park, an appropriate name for such a location. Tall mountains appeared through the fog, towering over the icy rivers that moved through the valleys far below. The highway may have been dangerous but its views certainly rewarded the adventurous traveler.


During the last 40 km of the highway the snow turned to rain and the white path I’d traveled on became a mix of mud and slush. It was much worse to drive in than the snow. Rain would fill the pot holes and it was a gamble on what you were gonna drive through when you hit one. I managed to make it though and arrived at the bridge that marked the entrance to the Dempster Highway. Phew, what a drive it had been!


I managed to make it another couple hundred kilometers before turning in for the night. Fatigue was becoming as issue as driving a highway like the Dempster is stressful, draining your stamina quicker than you may have thought. Being aware of this, I finally found a place to pull over and dozed off in my car for the night.

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Day 108 – Wandering through Whitehorse

Another cloudy morning paired with rain and snow accompanied me as I journeyed south towards Whitehorse. I stopped in at Takhini Hot Springs on the way where I took a nice dip in the steamy pool as snowflakes gently fell above me. It was a refreshing way to start the day, for I had plenty of ground to cover.


I made it into Whitehorse and began to wander through the city. Sadly all the tourist attractions were closed for the season but I still got some exploring in. I ventured to some unique sites such as the SS Klondike and the Old Wooden Church, places I’ll hopefully be able to walk inside one day.


As I made my way out of the city the clouds began to break apart, revealing blue skies that were a welcomed change from the dreary weather. The roads guided me through a land of thick forests and pristine lakes, all to the backdrop of snow covered mountains that towered over the land.


Dusk quickly turned to darkness as heavy clouds returned to snuff out the remaining light. I pushed on for a while before taking a moment to rest my eyes. That brief stop turned into a full nights sleep, I guess I’d been more exhausted than I thought.