I was awake at 4am doing a final check of the road conditions. The highway, while full of challenges, was doable. I couldn’t shy away now, I didn’t know when I’d have another opportunity to do such a drive. It was still quite dark as I took to the daunting Dempster Highway. Bushes covered in frost sparkled alongside the dirt and gravel road as I pressed forward. The temperatures fluctuated all over the place, from -10 to -19 within minutes. I had two ferry’s to catch around 550 km in and didn’t wanna risk missing them so I kept aware of my time and location as I drove onward.
The sun started to rise, bringing with it an amalgamation of pink and orange clouds that spread their colors across the land. For the first time I could see tall mountains covered in snow that surrounded the narrow highway. Half frozen rivers full of raging rapids followed alongside the road at times, a deadly and beautiful sight.
I could see why this road had quite the reputation for popped tires and broken windshields. With endless potholes and patches of sharp rocks, it made for a dangerous drive. Vehicles would pass at times, kicking up rocks as they went. I made sure to slow down for them as I carefully navigated the highway, trying my best to drive according to the conditions.
I entered into the Arctic Circle where a heavy blizzard welcomed me. It was one of those moments I was thankful I picked up good snow tires. The flurry blotted out much of the surrounding land as it blew through the area. By the time I made it into the Northwest Territories I could hardly see the sign!
I made it to the ferry’s in time, crossing two rivers into what felt like a different land. Driving the Dempster was like entering in and out of different realms, from steep mountains adorned with evergreens to flat land where hardly any trees grew at all.
I arrived in Inuvik, the end of the Dempster Highway but not the end of terrible roads. I didn’t explore the town too much, opting to visit on my way back and continue north.
Fatigue was setting in as the sun went down. I had driven over 800 km on a stressful unpaved road and I pulled over to take a break. Above me a strange white streak moved across the sky, could it be the Northern Lights?! I sat there staring up but a thick of clouds soon covered it. I needed rest regardless to do the rest of the drive safely so I simply dozed off in my car. What a drive it’d been!
