Category: Yukon

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Day 102 – Through the Northern Rockies and into the Yukon

Having had such a great meal at the restaurant in Toad River the night before I decided I’d grab some breakfast in the morning there as well. I had a big day ahead and getting a hearty meal in me was nice.


Going through the Northern Rockies was a spectacular drive. With immense mountains surrounding me on every side and powerful aqua rivers that rushed alongside the highway, I was left in a constant state of awe, often bursting into laughter at the sheer magnitude of the land around me.


Wildlife thrived in the regions, from smaller creatures like foxes and porcupines to herds of bison that grazed on the side of the road.


I kept a good pace but made sure to stop and appreciate the land as well. This led me to take detours down lengthy dirt roads to find hidden gems, one of them being a waterfall that was hidden deep in the bush.


On my way I passed by Liard River Hotsprings and decided it was worth the stop. I was glad I did, as soon I found myself walking down a wooden boardwalk to the bubbling springs. I didn’t just come to admire it though and made sure to take a dip. The hot waters felt refreshing and rejuvenating, a place I would’ve stayed at all day if I’d had more time to spare.


It was time to keep pressing on and soon I’d entered the Yukon at last! I was greeted by harsh winds upon my arrival into the Territory as a storm above me was growing in strength.


Along the way I came to the town of Watson Lake where the famous Sign Post Forest resided. What a fascinating place it turned out to be, a unique destination unlike any other. All sorts of signs adorned the wooden poles the rose up out of the ground, a creative spectacle that was impossible to miss.


As I continued my journey northwest it began to snow, lightly at first but soon heavier snow flakes fell to the earth and began accumulating. The weaving roads became icy, heightening the danger of going over a cliff and crashing in a ditch far below. I was thankful I picked up premium studded snow tires as they were holding up incredibly well in the harsh conditions.


I tried to find a place to pull over and rest but options were limited as I didn’t wanna get stuck. Eventually I found a spot where I set my alarm to wake me up periodically throughout the night for a chance at seeing the northern lights. Sadly I didn’t have any luck, it seems like I’ll have to wait a little longer for the spectacle.

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Day 103 – The looming decision in a land of snow

I was up fairly early and heading into Whitehorse to get some supplies and information. I’ve been putting a lot of thought into doing the drive up north on the Dempster Highway and I wanted to get as much information as possible before doing so. That highway is infamous for popped tires, broken wind shields and at this time of the year, snow.


By the time I finally left the city it was noon. Much of the land was covered in a thick white sheet of snow that’d fallen the night before. It turns out it broke a record in Whitehorse for the most snowfall at the beginning of the winter season!


The drive north was beautiful. Many lakes and rivers hugged the highway as it weaved its way through the mountainous lands. I was in no rush and took my time appreciating all the views.


As I made it further north the snow began to disappear, showcasing the land in a different color. I’ve always found it interesting looking at something and realizing how much different it was for someone in the past. One of these things was a narrow opening between a river where rapids gathered. While to me it was something nice to look at, during the gold rush this was a serious obstacle for treasure hunters as they navigated the land by boat.


I passed through some small towns with some neat signs but didn’t really explore them, I was to busy thinking about the potential drive the next day.


Nighttime arrived as I pulled into Dawson City. I refilled my gas tank and found a place to doze off. I set my alarm clock to wake me up at 4am, when I would make my final decision on braving the Dempster Highway.

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Day 104 – The daunting Dempster Highway!

I was awake at 4am doing a final check of the road conditions. The highway, while full of challenges, was doable. I couldn’t shy away now, I didn’t know when I’d have another opportunity to do such a drive. It was still quite dark as I took to the daunting Dempster Highway. Bushes covered in frost sparkled alongside the dirt and gravel road as I pressed forward. The temperatures fluctuated all over the place, from -10 to -19 within minutes. I had two ferry’s to catch around 550 km in and didn’t wanna risk missing them so I kept aware of my time and location as I drove onward.


The sun started to rise, bringing with it an amalgamation of pink and orange clouds that spread their colors across the land. For the first time I could see tall mountains covered in snow that surrounded the narrow highway. Half frozen rivers full of raging rapids followed alongside the road at times, a deadly and beautiful sight.


I could see why this road had quite the reputation for popped tires and broken windshields. With endless potholes and patches of sharp rocks, it made for a dangerous drive. Vehicles would pass at times, kicking up rocks as they went. I made sure to slow down for them as I carefully navigated the highway, trying my best to drive according to the conditions.


I entered into the Arctic Circle where a heavy blizzard welcomed me. It was one of those moments I was thankful I picked up good snow tires. The flurry blotted out much of the surrounding land as it blew through the area. By the time I made it into the Northwest Territories I could hardly see the sign!


I made it to the ferry’s in time, crossing two rivers into what felt like a different land. Driving the Dempster was like entering in and out of different realms, from steep mountains adorned with evergreens to flat land where hardly any trees grew at all.


I arrived in Inuvik, the end of the Dempster Highway but not the end of terrible roads. I didn’t explore the town too much, opting to visit on my way back and continue north.


Fatigue was setting in as the sun went down. I had driven over 800 km on a stressful unpaved road and I pulled over to take a break. Above me a strange white streak moved across the sky, could it be the Northern Lights?! I sat there staring up but a thick of clouds soon covered it. I needed rest regardless to do the rest of the drive safely so I simply dozed off in my car. What a drive it’d been!

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Day 107 – Caught in a northern blizzard

The snowfall I’d dealt with the night before was still falling heavily by the morning and the road north was now closed. Luckily the southern part of the Dempster was still open and waiting for me to embrace a challenge of snow and ice.


I knew the drive would be perilous but I couldn’t shy away, a thick snowfall was forecast to continue for days. The landscape took on a new appearance with the compounding snow, adorning it with a layer of fresh powder like a woolly cloak.


The highway cut through Tombstone Provincial Park, an appropriate name for such a location. Tall mountains appeared through the fog, towering over the icy rivers that moved through the valleys far below. The highway may have been dangerous but its views certainly rewarded the adventurous traveler.


During the last 40 km of the highway the snow turned to rain and the white path I’d traveled on became a mix of mud and slush. It was much worse to drive in than the snow. Rain would fill the pot holes and it was a gamble on what you were gonna drive through when you hit one. I managed to make it though and arrived at the bridge that marked the entrance to the Dempster Highway. Phew, what a drive it had been!


I managed to make it another couple hundred kilometers before turning in for the night. Fatigue was becoming as issue as driving a highway like the Dempster is stressful, draining your stamina quicker than you may have thought. Being aware of this, I finally found a place to pull over and dozed off in my car for the night.

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Day 108 – Wandering through Whitehorse

Another cloudy morning paired with rain and snow accompanied me as I journeyed south towards Whitehorse. I stopped in at Takhini Hot Springs on the way where I took a nice dip in the steamy pool as snowflakes gently fell above me. It was a refreshing way to start the day, for I had plenty of ground to cover.


I made it into Whitehorse and began to wander through the city. Sadly all the tourist attractions were closed for the season but I still got some exploring in. I ventured to some unique sites such as the SS Klondike and the Old Wooden Church, places I’ll hopefully be able to walk inside one day.


As I made my way out of the city the clouds began to break apart, revealing blue skies that were a welcomed change from the dreary weather. The roads guided me through a land of thick forests and pristine lakes, all to the backdrop of snow covered mountains that towered over the land.


Dusk quickly turned to darkness as heavy clouds returned to snuff out the remaining light. I pushed on for a while before taking a moment to rest my eyes. That brief stop turned into a full nights sleep, I guess I’d been more exhausted than I thought.